Day 6: Fundacio Joan Miro & Arrival in Sitges

Joan Miro Fundacio

[Kirsten]
We decided we’d squeeze one last activity out of our stay in the city before heading to the beach in Sitges. It seemed simple enough to us – we’ll wake up relatively early (just so you all know, we are living on Barcelona time now, which means our days really get going around 10am and wind down around 2am – quite a change from our normal 6am – 10pm, eh?), grab some café and head over. Well. Nothing ever quite works out how you imagine it when you’re traveling. We forgot (whoops!) that we had to pack, and check out, and think about what we were going to do for lunch after the museum, and think about the train schedules for travel to Sitges, etc., etc. THEN we realized we would have to walk a good chunk of the way to the museum up a gigantic hill.

On the way up to Joan Miro's Fundacio - a view from the Catalan Museum of Art

So, when we finally arrived at the museum, it was well into the early afternoon hours. I couldn’t help but think about all the beach time I was missing.

[Brian] Yes, she wanted to get to the Joan Miro museum as quickly as possible – I knew I couldn’t convince her to walk a couple metro stops. However, once at the museum, both of us savored and meditated on the art inside and the rush went out of style for around 2.5 hours.

So, Joan Miró (1893-1983)...

This man was not only a painter and sculptor but a ceramist. He is, perhaps, the biggest rebel artist of his time. He tried his best to “assassinate” what he considered conventional methods in established painting, which supported pleasurable visual elements and balance as well as the established form of cubism (mastered by Picasso in the latter part of his career). He considered the stiff, structured, defined artistic methods to perpetuate and promote the propaganda and cultural identity of the wealthy. So, Miró was actually laying the hammer down on Picasso’s art form, as well. So I guess Cubism was cool when Picasso discovered it but once it was established (about the time when Miro came around) it became lame (to Miro, at least).

Views from the roof of Joan Miro Museum were easing. The museum sits close to the Olympic stadium in Montjuic. Brian is thinking,"Both Miro and Picasso lived to over 90 years (Picasso: 92 and Miro:100). Is there a medical study on this? Maybe I should drop the bike and pick up paint brushes"

[Kirsten]

Once inside, though, all thoughts of that order vanished. The museum was incredible. Although she looks bored here, Kirst is actually having a great time.
We are a little tired, though, and beach time is needed

Unbeknownst to me at the time of my entry into that building, I am actually a fan of abstract art. I’m not sure if you are all familiar with Joan Miro’s work, but I’m sure you’d recognize it immediately if you saw it – lots of bright, primary colors and thick lines used to draw shape. Thank goodness we had an audio guide, because otherwise his pictures might not have made sense. However, with the guide, we were able to make some sense of what we were looking at and it became….quite fun. In the words of Rick Steves…. ‘Miro believed that everything in the cosmos is linked – colors, sky, stars, love, time, music, dogs, men, women, dirt, and the void. He mixed childlike symbols of these things creatively, as a poet uses words. It’s as liberating for the visual artist to be abstract as it is for the poet….Miro would listen to music and paint. It’s interactive, free interpretation. He said, ‘for me, simplicity is freedom’. What a cool guy. He painted lots of pictures of women and stars especially, often on the same canvas – they always looked different, but the themes and messages were always similar.

[Brian]
I won’t lie. Most of this work went over my head. Thank God for the 4 euro audio cliff notes guide. I was so dependent on the explanations that I wouldn’t study a work without them; I knew this isn’t what a true connoisseur of fine art would do but that’s why I am not one. One of Miro’s works consisted of three huge canvases (so big they needed their own room), each with a free-handed, non-connecting, single line running across them... and nothing else. This is art? No, I think this is what happens when an artist is so respected that he can get away with anything he claims he spent years trying to conceive; anything is often accepted and accommodated for such people. Much of his stuff, however, is quite decent but for a few of his works, even he must have been quietly laughing after selling them.

[Kirsten]
We weren’t able to take pictures inside the museum, but there was a rooftop exhibition of some of his sculptures and we snapped some photos there. As I mentioned before, the building WAS located on the top of a hill, so we had great views of Barcelona behind us.

Okay, after the museum we hustled back down the hill (I was starving, and we really did hustle), headed back to our hotel via subway, made a quick stop at the grocery store for bocadillo ingredients, grabbed our suitcases, bought tickets for the next train to Sitges, and ran down the ramp and just barely made the train. We were proud of ourselves but somewhat exhausted and as I mentioned before, starving.

So, from the grocery store we had bought bread (a long baguette) and cheese. There were basically three problems: the bread was, obviously, in one long, continuous piece and it was extremely crumbly; third, we were on a crowded European train, which means you always sit facing the people seated directly behind or in front of you (it makes for a lot of awkward knee and foot touching). There was a kind old man across from Brian and a mom across from me (her daughter sat next to me). In order not to cause crumbs to fly every which way like sparks from a from a crackling fire, Brian devised a plan: cut the bread over – and semi-inside – his backpack. What a genius – no crumbs flew anywhere, except directly into his backpack. He created our cheese bocadillos and we ate them like there was no tomorrow. We felt better right then and there.

Sitges

[Kirsten]
We felt even better when we began to see the beautiful Mediterranean Sea. Man, it’s like a jewel – layers of blue and green upon other layers of blue and green. We hopped a bus which drove us almost to the door of our hotel.
After we checked in and had our first glimpse of our hotel room (during which our jaws literally dropped, this place is soooo nice!) we took a few minutes to get to know the space. The room is beautiful, and we are completely self-sufficient in here – we have a kitchenette, a washing machine (!), a really, really big balcony, and the most comfortable bed perhaps in all of Spain. We absolutely LOVE it here and are enjoying every second!

the view from our balcony in Sitges

[Brian]
The Hotel Sunway Playa Golf was about US$105 per night and it was worth it. It is not only new but it’s well designed and well managed. Our apartment had a laundry washing machine, and a drying rack, which we could place on our balcony. They also provided us with dishes, knives, cutting boards, etc. and the means to clean them. This allowed us to cook our own food, cut a variety of fresh fruit, which saved us a lot of money on eating out, since restaurants in this area are pricey.

Dinner in at our place (complete with ice cold Estrella Spanish beer)

We also got bikes (and locks) with our room which made up for the 1 mile distance the hotel was from the town’s center.

Kirsten mastering clothes washing... Euro-style

Heavy chill-time

first stroll through the town's center

Sitges is probably one of the most gay friendly towns I have ever been. Walking through the town's center, shown above, there were more same-sex couples than hetersexual ones.

International Study Program Last Minute Cancellation

I got bad news from the program director of the international education program I was supposed to start working for this summer. Due to some last minute key staff pull out, the program was canceled. This means that I’ll be heading home much earlier than I thought. Kirsten and I were having such a great time in Sitges, we decided to stay here for another night, for a total of 3 nights. Although I am bummed about not being able to work here and continue my learning process of running international education programs, I am glad to return back to NYC, spend time with Kirsten and work on my proposal.

Day 5 – Montserrat and Flamenco Show

Montserrat

(Brian)

For 21 euros per person, we got tickets that covered travel to and entrance fees for Montserrat. Montserrat, or “Serrated Mountains” are located east-north-east from Barcelona. It is Catalunya’s most important pilgrimage site for hundreds of years and contains a monastery with amazing views at 4,000 feet. You can read more about the history of the place online.

The tickets we bought included the metro ride to the train station, the train to the base of the cable car, the cable car up to Montserrat, and all funiculars (steep-track rail trains), which trucked people up and down the most difficult routes to the most significant parts of Montserrat.

Brian in the funicular

There were more expensive tickets, which included a museum and a meal (would have cost us about $15 more) but the museum was nothing to write home about and I thought we could get cheaper food en route. Turns out I was wrong about the food; I ended up paying about US$3 for one of Kirsten’s 16 oz. Coke Zeros. If you’re planning a trip here, bring your own food or pay dearly.

We did about a 2.5-hour, round trip hike to the highest point as soon as we got there. Since we caught one of the first trains in, we got to experience a less crowded trail. The views were great and I’ll let the pictures speak for themselves.

Brian and Kirsten doing Superman at a rest stop on the way to the peak. Wineries in the background.

We reached the peak; it took us a little over an hour.

(Kirsten)

Oh, hiking. Did you ever think you could do such great hiking in Barcelona, Spain? I sure didn’t. I remember reading about Montserrat (one of Rick Steve’s recommended ‘day trips’) in bed in our apartment in New York and being REALLY excited about it. I was NOT excited, however, when I found myself in the cable car climbing up the sides of successive rocky cliffs. The car held about 20 people, had open windows, and climbed probably about 3,000 feet in 5 minutes.

Yep, that small speck of a building down there was the starting point of the cable car climb. Yikes!

It was terrifying, and apparently I am afraid of heights.

The hiking was spectacular, really breathtaking, as you can see by the photos. It was fun just to be so ‘far up’ – everywhere you turned you had an incredible view of something. And the mountains – I’ve never seen anything like them! Plus, the monastery was really beautiful - tucked snugly into the mountains, as you can see.

The monastery complete with small, singing children (for 10 min. each day) which tourists go crazy about.

In front of the old monks' cloister. Note the 4 trees the monks plant, hoping to harvest only their symbolism:

(from left to right): palm = martydom, cypress = eternal life, olive = peace, laurel = victory

Brian is enjoying taking pictures of windows for some reason

Kirsten in the courtyard of the Basilica

These mosaics lined the walls for our viewing pleasure as we waited to get our hand on La Moreneta (in the next picture)

La Moreneta is the patroness of Catalunya; pilgrims touch her orb with one hand and make wishes or seek her blessings.

After we touched this we washed our hands.

Lunch was expensive. And we were hungry, so we didn’t use too much discretion – not a good combination.

After lunch we traveled to the ‘sacred cave’, listed as such in every publication we had read till that point BUT – don’t be fooled – it’s really not a cave at all. It probably used to be, and there was maybe one wall in there that looked cave-like, but it’s basically a house built into the side of a cliff.

(Brian): Although I am writing home about this, I shouldn't have. This is more of an indent in the mountain than a cave.

Now they have made it 5 percent natural, 95 percent man-made.

Oh, well, the walk to the cave was beautiful. Constructed by Gaudi and co., it featured a handful of striking statues and sculptures on the way to the cave, and it literally was built into the side of the cliff. With a low wall protecting you from falling (mom, try not to think about it too much!).

Holy lawsuit! Look at how low this wall is which lines the path to the sacred cave.

On the other side is vertical drop of about 50 meters. One could easily trip over this.

After dealing with the terror of the cable car one last time, we caught the 4:38 train and headed back to town. I totally slept on that train!!

Flamenco at Los Tarantos

(Brian)

Kirsten’s persistence to see Flamenco brought us to the Placa Reial to a club offering 30-minute Flamenco performances for 12 euros (for two people). 

Brian enjoying cava in Plaza Reial before the performance

It featured an amazing Flamenco band of 6 men playing for 20 minutes before an amazing flamenco-dancer graced the stage. She wasn’t dressed up too stunning but the colors that she lacked in her dress were made up by the skill of her dancing; she was part metronome. She clacked her heels with nearly perfect timing and played the part of an instrument as well as a dancer.

Kirsten at the Flamenco venue - a great mosaic lined one of the walls!

(Kirsten)

She really was something. So beautiful, with her hair back in a bun at the nape of her neck and her hair combs perfectly placed….she was clacking all over the place but was the epitome of gracefulness. I also loved the venue – it was small and intimate, which meant that everyone who paid for entry got a good seat. Also, the band was amazing. They started with just the guitars playing, then a violinist and two vocalists entered the scene. The two vocalists were incredible, like nothing I’ve ever heard (live, anyway) – the way they sang sounded Arabic. Everything about the performance was great and I didn’t want it to end. One of the best parts of the performance was seeing how much Brian enjoyed it. I had seen flamenco before when I studied abroad in Madrid, but this was his first time. He was really impressed, which made me really happy.

Another great day in the city!

Day 3: Museu Picasso, Barri Gotic, Barri Ribera, Catedral de Barcelona

[Kirsten]

I realized today that I have become something of a Rick Steve’s fanatic, which kind of means that I am turning into my mother and father. For those of you who are not familiar with Mr. Steves, he is a travel writer based in Edmonds, WA, who has brilliantly made a career out of traveling ‘through the back door’ in Europe and, consequently, has produced a series of amazing guide books. Seriously – the way he writes, I feel like someone is telling me secret after secret about this city, and it has become addicting.

Anyway, poor Brian, he’s such a good sport - almost every step we took today was orchestrated by Rick Steves. Each time either of us would propose any inkling a of plan (or we walked into a new room at the Picasso museum), I felt myself reaching for the book, until finally, over café con leche and a discussion during which I literally opened the book 7 times, I verbally instructed myself to stop. I’d like to try to lighten up on the book tomorrow, but I don’t know if I’m ready yet – he’s just so good!

[Brian]

While waiting to get into the Picasso Museum, we listened to one of the many, high quality musicians on the street; he was Brazilian.

I notice there are a lot of Portguese and Brazilian singers performing here. I always make a point to support them with a few cents because they add so much to the auditory experience of being in BCN. If they are exceptional, we'll buy a CD.

Today, at the Picasso museum I ran into a great guide. His name was José Cabello García all the security guards at the museum seemed to know him. He was giving pretty explicit details about some of the art to an Italian group and kept the discussion lively. I think I would like to try and get him working for our program next year.

The Picasso Museum included some new, erotic pieces of art which were amongst the pieces I found the most interesting in the collection – very graphic stuff which is the kind of thing he may have painted on bathroom stalls as a young art student. I wasn't allowed to bring my camera in so I can't grace this blog with his sketches.

The museum did a great job at showing the different stages of his life and how the art reflected those stages (example: during a two year period of depression most of his works were painted in blue tones)

One of our favorite plazas of the day - Plaza de Sant Felip Neri - which doubles as a playground for an elementry school.

[Kirsten]

One of the greatest things that happened to us today occurred unexpectedly. We were on our way home (we like to come home to ‘recover’, as Brian says, before tapas) and had just arrived at the South End of the Ramblas to catch our train when we heard some wonderful guitar music. Not too amazing at that point, as we had been hearing wonderful guitar music all day in front of various tourist hot spots. However, there was obviously some accompaniment, and a small crowd was gathering to see what was going on. So why wouldn’t we? We joined the crowds just as a regular-looking young man (not more than twenty) dressed in comfy khakis and a brown t-shirt began to wave at people to come closer. As we stepped a few feet towards him, he lifted his arms and suddenly we realized – a ha! Flamenco! He proceeded to do a solo flamenco dance as the music played. He did a fantastic job, and Brian and I both really enjoyed the music as well. We’d really like to see more flamenco, so we’re going to try to find a show for either tomorrow or Monday evening, before heading down to Sitges.